The little known Seiko 7s26-0020 200m diver
A couple of years ago, someone proudly posted his proud acquisition on SCWF – a strange looking 7s26-0020 diver’s watch that none of the forum members had ever seen. Nobody was able to identify the odd model from Seiko and a few suggested that it may be a fake Seiko watch.
I scrutinized the photos carefully and couldn’t put my finger on it. Appearance-wise, it looked like the garden variety SKX173 model for North America – except that there were differences enough to suggest that it wasn’t a SKX173 at all. The second hand was indisputably borrowed from the SKX007K model as the lumed dot (or some call it “meatball”) was on the opposite end of the hand. It was as though this model was a “Franken Seiko”, i.e. cobbled out of parts from different Seiko models.
Forum members nevertheless congratulated the owner for his strange find. This watch was never seen again on the forum nor was it discussed after that. It was largely forgotten. Until recently. 🙂
I still kept the photos downloaded from the post and decided to take another look at them. What model was this watch, exactly? It wasn’t even referenced in Kevin Chan’s Seiko Diver’s Reference – the well known, de facto Seiko diver photo repository.
There was something strangely familiar about the design of the watch dial – it’s like I’ve seen it before, but where?
Where does this watch fit in?
Before we delve further into the subject matter, we need to make direct comparisons this mystery watch with what we already know – the SKX173 and the very commonly found SKX007K.
Top: The mysterious 7s26-0020 vs another well-known 7s26-0020, the SKX007K.
As we can see, the only the only similarities between the two are the black rotating bezel insert and the hands. The dial on the watch on the left has square hour markers while the SKX007K’s have round and ellipsoid index markers. The 12 o’clock index shapes are also vastly different.
At the surface, our mystery guest seems to be an SKX173 diver gone wrong! 🙂 Did someone at the factory inadvertently switch the wrong parts for this oddball piece?
OK, now let’s take a look at the same watch versus the North American model.
Top: Compared with the 7s26-0028/9, the SKX173 for the North American market. Nope, doesn’t match 100%.
Now the arcane looking Seiko diver draws more parallelisms with the SKX173. You can see that the hour markers are rectangular and the addition of the lumed marker at the 3 o’clock position. In fact, it would be a dead ringer for the SKX173 if it weren’t for the:
- Different styled second hand (lumed dot on the opposite end of the hand)
- Shorter and wider V-shaped 12 o’clock marker
- Framed index markers (hardly noticeable in the picture)
As you can see, the cryptic watch appears to be a combination of the SKX173 and the SKX007K. I would have believed that, except for one thing. The dial is very unlike the SKX173 despite both designs having rectangular markers. I figured out that it had to be some short-lived model that not many people knew about.
The mystery was solved at last!
I remembered that there was one particular SKX diver that was considered rare as hen’s teeth and only a handful of photos were available. It was the SKX401K with the Pepsi-colored rotating bezel. It struck me that the V-shaped 12 o’clock marker looked very close to the SKX401K’s, so I decided to compare this watch with it.
Top: Our guest watch next to the very-hard-to-find, SKX401K. Bingo! Perfect match! 🙂
As you can see, except for the bezel insert color, all aspects of both watches are similar. The dial of the mystery watch matches the SKX401K’s to a tee. Likewise, the hands are also of the same design with each other.
Here are more pics of the rare SKX401K. It’s so rare that if you were to put up one for sale in the watch sales forums, I guarantee that your watch would be booked by eager buyers within minutes! 😉 In fact, one regular SCWF forum member used to persistently put up a WTB (Want-To-Buy) ad in the trade forum for the SKX401K for months. I don’t know whether he finally got one though.
Top: Two breathtaking shots of the SKX401K. Pics courtesy of Chris Moy.
Since the unknown watch was very much related to the SKX401K, it had to be a model that’s numerically close to the SKX401K. I looked for some reference numbers in the Seiko database and I finally nailed it. The mystery watch was the rarely heard-of SKX399K.
More photos of the rare SKX399K
Let’s take at some pics of the SKX399K as submitted by the owner (sorry, I cannot remember his name). From a distance, it sure looks like the North American model, SKX173 diver. But it’s not. Dimensions-wise, it is similar to the ubiquitous SKX007K or J model, nothing more and nothing less.
Above: Additional photos of the SKX399K. This watch was a March 2004 production.
Incidentally, the SKX399K has a dark grey-black dial with a dial part number of 1614XB13 while the SKX401K’s deep navy blue dial has a different part number – 1614XL13.
Where were the SKX399K and SKX401K models marketed?
This is the tough part to crack. I can’t pinpoint which countries these two models were sold back then. But I can tell you that these watches were definitely not for:
- The Japan domestic market. JDM models always have a 4-letter prefix with no “K” or “J” as the suffix.
- The North American market. If they were, the dials and caseback should show the country of origin as per US FCC regulations. Also, North American SKX divers have the caseback designation 7s26-0028 or 7s26-0029, not 7s26-0020.
- The Middle East market (like the SKX007J/011J). These watches are designated as “K” models and don’t have “Made in Japan” printed on the dials. I doubt these were exported to the Arab speaking countries.
I think the SKX399K and SKX401Ks were probably sold in Southeast Asia (not all countries). It could have been for the Hong Kong, Taiwan or the Thailand market. Definitely not for Malaysia or Singapore – otherwise I would have seen them locally and the Singapore based eBay sellers would have auctioned them by the truckloads. 😉
A close up pic of the SKX399K with the warranty card. Photo by the watch owner.
As we can see from the picture above, the standard 1-year warranty card and silver hang tag is typical for Seiko watches sold in SE Asia. The owner was a very lucky chap to own a totally new old stock (NOS) piece, given the fact that the SKX401K and SKX399K were rare birds. He purchased it more than two years since it was made, by the way. 🙂
It’s unclear why the seller marked the caseback as “7s26-0020w” because no such caseback number exists according to Seiko’s caseback naming convention. It could have been an error made by the seller. This watch is definitely a 7s26-0020 and no doubt about it.
Latest photo gallery of the SKX399K
A big round of thanks goes to my good friend James Tan from Singapore, who happens to be another proud owner of this uber rare Seiko diver. He took the trouble to submit fresh photos of this this lovely watch just for Quartzimodo’s Time Journal!
According to him, he purchased this watch from someone in the Philippines. Without additional supporting data, it’s too premature to deduce that the SKX399K (and the Pepsi-bezel SKX401K) were confined to the Philippines market.
Thanks, James! 🙂
Above: James’ watch comes with the factory fitted Z22 polyurethane strap. The blue protective sticker is still intact, suggesting that he very seldom wears this watch or doesn’t wear it at all.
Above: A direct, side-by-side comparison with the Japan-made, SKX009J (left). You can see how the framed rectangular index markers makes it appear slightly dressier than the SKX009.
Above: James’ trademark “wok” (Asian deep frying pan) shots lend a very unique background to these stellar quality photo shots. Note how the index markers glow like in the lume photo on the top right.
Why were these models unheard of before?
The answer to that question is simple. They were simply not produced in enough quantities to go around. However, it’s unclear as to why Seiko made very few pieces of the SKX399K and SKX401K. Perhaps Seiko was trying them out to see how they fared against the extremely popular SKX007/SKX009K.
Or, it was specially made for a specific Southeast Asian market for a very limited period of time. Not much is known about these two very hard-to-find 7s26-0020 divers.
Suffice to say, both the SKX399K and SKX401K are rare as hen’s teeth. I have no idea when they first appeared in the market, but I’ve seen photos of the SKX401K as early as 2004.
So if you ever see one of these for sale – grab it while you still can. I know I would! 😉
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Comments
Hi Kenth,
These models may be no longer in production and they were never sold by Seiko as special “limited edition” watches. Therefore in my opinion they should cost about the same as the regular SKX007K model. Only the dial sets it apart from the SKX007K because all other components appear to be identical. Your biggest challenge is not about the price but actually locating one. 🙁
However, if a seasoned collector is willing to selling one from his collection, expect a premium of 40% or more over its original price paid, given the super rare status of the SKX399K/401K. A cheaper alternative is to buy the replacement dial from a Seiko service center (if they allow you to buy this dial) and to swap it with the one from an SKX007K.
Update: It seems that this model was sold in the Philippines (thanks to Gerrylb who lives there).
Hope this helps. 🙂
Quartzimodo Admin.
i12.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/e6/ac/6e0f_1.JPG
Hi there,
I have the opportunity to buy this watch from a local seller here in the Philippines. Does it look legit to you? Thanks for any info!
Gerry
I posted a few pics in Watchuseek forum. I posted a link to your site in the thread last week. Hope you don’t mind.
forums.watchuseek.com/showthread.php?p=1641946#post1641946
Hi Gerry,
No problem. Isthmus is a friend of mine and I know he’s a mod at WUS. I can always track referrer links to my blog and I’ve already seen your post, lol. 🙂 . All the images in my blog are public domain (including my own watch images), except for the content (text) – which is of my own work.
Thanks for posting the link to my article, appreciate it. 🙂 Now – look for the hard-to-find SKX401K diligently… after all, perseverance pays off!
Quartzimodo Admin.
Looking to purchase the following watch off the bay & am a little confused as to what it is.
Seller says the numbers are 7S26-0028.
Pictures:
i24.ebayimg.com/01/i/001/2f/22/d01c_1.JPG
i2.ebayimg.com/07/i/001/2f/22/d256_1.JPG
Thanks for any info you can provide.
Hi Tucker,
The watch in question is an SKX173 diver (not SKX173K), specially made for the U.S and Canada market. It should not to be confused with the SKX399, which is a different design although both look very much alike. “7s26-0028” means the movement is a recent 7s26B caliber from Malaysia and then the watch was assembled in China.
It’s a genuine Seiko watch from the photos, no worries. 🙂
Quartzimodo Admin.
Thanks for your great BLOG REVIEW. I was lucky enough to see one BRAND NEW at my LOCAL AD display window and I’ll be going back tomorrow to pull the trigger. I just wanted to visit your blog one more time to see if I did have the correct model in my sights(yup, everything checks out). I snuck a picture with my phone cam while I was there- I’ll take more pics when I bring her home.
img523.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00020vc7.jpg
Oh yeah, I am from the Philippines as well. I guess we can definitely say that the Philippines was one of the (if not THE) target countries for this limited run.
Hi Stanley,
Thanks for your inputs. I’m now convinced that the SKX399K/401K were specially made for the Philippines market. At this point in time it’s uncertain why only the Philippines is lucky enough to get these rare models. Kevin Chan’s diver’s reference site made no mention of the market it was for and for a long time not much is known about this diver.
How many PhP or US Dollars do one of these watches fetch over there?
Thanks! 🙂
Quartzimodo Admin.
Good for you, Stanley! 🙂
Looking at pics of your watch, I think it could be a Dec 2007 production. The rubber strap, bezel and the case shows no signs of aging. If it were truly NOS, the blue sticker’s adhesive on the caseback would have glued itself. Warranty card and owner’s manual have not yellowed due to age either. The only way you can determine this for sure is to open the caseback and look at the rotor. If it says 7s26B on the rotor, then it’s a Dec 2007 production without doubt.
That said, I have not seen examples of 1997-made SKX399Ks. Congrats and wear this beauty in good health! 🙂
cheers,
Quartzimodo Admin.
I still don’t have a case back opener(its on it’s way) so until I visit the AD again, I guess its safe to assume that 2007 would be this watch’s production year.
By the way, would it be possible to guess-timate this models total production run if we use the known serial numbers of this watch model as an indicator?
If not the total production run numbers, we can at least figure out the time period that this particular model was produced.
Unfortunately, there isn’t sufficient data in the form of caseback photos and/or owner testimonials to determine a rough period when the SKX399K/401Ks were produced, Stanley. 🙁
Are these models easy to find in Davao or Manila and are SKX007K/009Ks also sold alongside the SKX399Ks in your country? Your watch simply looks too new to have been in the shop for 12 years. The caliber variant of your watch will however, determine if your watch was made back in 1997 or 2007. 😉
Quartzimodo Admin.
They’re not that easy to find over here in Davao or even in Manila, but if you look hard enough- you can get lucky.
I’ve scouted a couple more units in smaller shops and I can probably see their serial numbers if I get around to visiting them again. We can ask Gerry in Manila to do the same if he can. Plus you can also ask your other readers to do the same if the care to help out.
Yes, the other divers such as the SKX007/009Ks are also sold alongside the SKX399ks in local shops. We haven’t seen the 401K yet though. As a matter of fact, pepsi bezels in general are outnumbered here. Seems like most Filipinos prefer their divers straight black.
Many thanks for your feedback, Stanley. 🙂
I guess that pretty much explains it all – the SKX399K/401K for some unknown reason, was made specially for the Philippines market. That’s too bad considering that Seiko could have extended these models to the rest of the ASEAN countries. Personally, I’m not an SKX009K fan, but if I’m looking for a Pepsi bezeled 7s26-0020 diver, it would definitely be the SKX401K. 😉
cheers,
Quartzimodo Admin
Hi:
Was very interesting as I think I have a Seiko Divers Watch … but now I’m not sure if it is a fake or not. It looks exactly the same as the SKX009J but with an orange face and a black surround of the SKX009. I’ve been using it for diving for about 5 years now. Could it be a fake? .. as it was a present to a freind who did not dive so I bought it off him new.
I will search for this watch…if i find one i will post some pics here…im a watch collector myself…did you know that your the one who make me interested on buying divers watch?haha..currently i bought 2 used but good conditon 7s26-0020 orange dial and a black 7002-7000…i have also a titanium seiko watch…I hope I can find this kind of watch too….
Kumusta Xtian,
LOL, some people have said that I have been a bad influence on them that they actually searched for and bought the watches I happen to have. 🙂 Since you live in the Philippines it shouldn’t be that hard for you to find the SKX399K or SKX401K somewhere in Manila. Happy watch hunting!
Salamat po for your comments!
Quartzimodo
Hi guys and Quartzimodo admin.
I live in Manila, Philippines!
I recently purchased a Seiko divers much like the one featured above. Written on the back was 7s26 0030 scuba. It also had the same written on the dial at the south part (nearest to arm 6) and it says 7s26 0003R. It’s a nice looking watch and so I took it coz it only pegged at $51 used but in great condish.
The markers though, were rounded, as opposed to the example above as rectangular, and that’s the only difference I can see with what I’ve got against the 7s26-0020, since I have the 7s26-0030. And these came with the original rubber strap.
Can anybody tell me more about this watch if you have any info about it? It’s a nice watch to supplement my monster, and I plan to buy more for my little Seiko collection =)
Many thanks!
Hi Yebadudi,
You have a rare Seiko 7s26-0030 diver if your watch is the orange faced SKX017K and to a lesser degree, the Pepsi bezel, SKX015K. Most 7s26-0030 divers that I’ve seen for sale are the common black dialed, SKX013K. These are mid-sized divers suitable for boys or women. Most Seiko diver’s watch collectors, myself included, prefer the full sized 7s26-0020 models though.
Apart from the differently styled hands, the 7s26-0030 watches have bezel markings with the 10 minute mark with a hooked “10” instead of the “straight-ten” number. The black SKX013K comes in either 20mm Jubilee bracelet or rubber strap, while the rarer orange dialed SKX017K is issued with the Z-20 Z-22 rubber strap.
hope this helps,
Quartzimodo
Thanks for that Quartzimodo!
What I have is not orange, and not a pepsi bezel. And it’s the same size as my Orange Baby monster, so maybe this is a mid sized one.
And you are spot on with the “10” on the bezel which is hooked rather than straight on the 1. And I checked the rubber strap it says Z-22.
I appreciate the infos mate! Looks like I got a keeper here. I’m not much of a fan of the rubber straps so I think I’ll look for a jubilee or a nATo strap for this to suit my taste.
More power guys!
Hi Yebadudi,
OK, then you own the more common SKX013K then. The SKX015K and 017K are rarer versions. Yes, it is a mid-sized diver. I erred on the lug width as I had really forgotten about the 7s26-0030 divers and there aren’t many left in the stores, depending on where you live. You may want to check with William Jean’s eBay store in case you prefer the solid linked Oyster II bracelets instead of Seiko’s lower specc’ed Jubilee.
Quartzimodo
Hi could this watch be the SKX399K (7626-0020),I recently got one and slapped a NATO strap to give it a MACHO look
i47.photobucket.com/albums/f169/toxicpapa/IMG_6952.jpg
Hi, Quartzimodo.
I read in philippinewatchclub.org that the 399 is still available in SM North Edsa, Prestige store, here in Manila, Philippines. It’s very far from where I currently live. If get the chance to travel here, you know where to start.
Hi Lito SEG,
Thanks for the comments. The watch is worth more than the box itself, unless you’re talking about limited or Historical Edition Seiko watches. Collectors are willing to pay more if the special box that accompanies the equally special watch, but the SKX399K is one of the mass produced Seiko divers therefore not getting the box is not a big deal to me. All the non-Japan market Seikos I bought on eBay came without boxes anyway.
Quartzimodo
I have a Seiko SKX399K (7S26-0020) which I bought in Bacolod City, Philippines in December 2009 at Shoemart Dept.Store . I am a Filipino living in the US. I went on vacation to my hometown in the Philippines and decided to get a Seiko Divers Watch. I always wondered where this watch was made and what the model number really was. I finally decided to hunt down the model number today, typed in “SEIKO 7S26 0020” (this number appears on the back of the watch)in Google and landed on this website. I am going to take photos of my divers watch, including case and warranty card and share it with this website. The serial number of my watch is 800655. Not sure when this was made.
Hi Paul,
Nobody knows for sure when the SKX399K first debuted in the Philippines market, but photos of the harder-to-find, SKX401K (with the Pepsi bezel insert) have been around earlier than 2003. All I can say is that if your watch looks and smells brand new, it’s likely from Oct 2008. If you’re able to open up the caseback and you see “7s26B” inscribed on the oscillating weight, instead of “7s26A” it confirms that your watch is from 2008 (instead of 1998).
Quartzimodo
Great write-up, Quartzimodo.
I’ve only recently just bought a ‘399 myself and wasn’t sure of its origin until I read this article. Safe to say, I snapped it up as soon as I found out what it actually was! They seem to be incredibly rare here over in the UK.
I’ve written a very basic review of said watch here:
www.tz-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=173034&p=1757717#p1757717
Again, great article and very informative!
,Iwan
Hi Iwan,
Nice and sweet review you did about the SKX399K. This model is indigenous to the Philippines market for some odd reason. It’s not even available in other countries in SE Asia. It’s probably like the Yellow, Blue and Red Monster divers, which were exclusive to Thailand.
I would however, prefer the Pepsi bezeled, SKX401K. 🙂
Quartzimodo
I have a watch that looks identical to the SKX009J. THe only difference from the one in the photo is mine is a quartz movement instead of automatic. I bought it on base in Japan in 1980. Don’t have the book for it. Is it an SKX009J or some other model?
I also have another that I bought at Costco several years ago. The book says it’s a Cal. 7S26 but it has a face like the 9J. any Ideas on what model it actually might be?
Hi Don,
Seiko made a few quartz divers that resembled the SKX009J (or K) from the late 80s onwards. I think you had the Seiko 7548-700F, which is the closest looking model. It’s been discontinued a long time ago.
The reference letters “SKX” refers exclusively to the 7s26 automatic caliber and never any other type of movements. Your watch that was purchased at Costco is likely to be the SKX009K if comes with a deep blue dial and a “Pepsi” red/blue bezel insert. The SKX009K is a good and robust watch and is one of Seiko’s best selling diver’s models since 1996, when it first was introduced.
hope this helps,
Quartzimodo
Hi Renz,
All 7s-caliber based Seiko watches are set to run fast at the factory to err on the well, fast side of timekeeping. I guess the manufacturer feels that it’s better for the wearer to show up early for an appointment than late. Furthermore, owners new to automatic watches are quick to associate a slow running watch as “defective”. If you vigorously shake your watch too frequently, doing so will also cause it to gain time.
The factory specifications for the 7s26 caliber movement used in your SKX007K is no more than +40secs per day. If you notice that your watch is consistently running too fast, you’ll need to have it regulated – preferably by an experienced watch repairman. Sometimes it takes several attempts to regulate your watch for optimal accuracy. You might want to have it regulated first and monitor its accuracy for a week. If it runs too slow, it needs to be regulated again as necessary until you get something like plus or minus five seconds a day. Try to strike up an understanding with your watch repairman to have your watch monitored over three weeks to allow the regulated escapement mechanism to be fine tuned. Any experienced watchmaker should know that mechanical watches cannot be regulated to perfection on the first try.
It’s like bringing a guitar to a guitar repair technician to adjust its action and intonation. He will usually note how hard you strum and bend the strings, adjust your guitar and tell you to come back in a week to allow the adjustments to settle in; and fine tune it further until you’re happy. 🙂
Quartzimodo Admin.
Hi Watch Fan,
If you’re referring to the 7s26-0020 family of divers, they come only in the colors that you’ve listed above.
Those with green, purple or even red dials are usually used, vintage Seiko divers with aftermarket dials, which are not manufactured by Seiko. Most of the funny colored dial watches are 6309-729x and 7002 series divers. This is because their original dials had deteriorated so badly that nobody would want to buy them. .
Since stocks of genuine replacement dials have long dried up and are no longer available, enterprising sellers (particularly on eBay) fit them with non-Seiko dials. While purists would readily scoff at such aftermarket dial watches, some people don’t mind buying a green or purple dialed Seiko diver. 🙂
Hope this answers your question!
Quartzimodo
@Quartzimodo Admin –
Quartzimodo,
Thanks for the information. At this point, I can avoid the after-market editions and stay four true colors!
Hi lum,
You’re indeed fortunate to locate the SKX399K in Muscat. I didn’t think this model was actually sold to the Middle East countries. AFAIK, it’s exclusive to the Philippines market, just like the limited edition, Yellow, Blue and Red Monsters were to the Thailand market! 🙂
enjoy the watch in good health!
Quartzimodo
Hi sda,
I’ve never heard of ANY Seiko watch that uses a Miyota movement, which is a company owned by Citizen Japan. Seiko and Citizen are competitors and it does not make sense to find a Miyota-made movement in a Seiko watch. The movement may be made in the Philippines, but I haven’t heard of a Seiko factory in the Philippines.
Your diver’s watch is not an original Seiko one, but more likely a Franken-Seiko (made up from different parts not original to the watch).
best regards,
Quartzimodo
I own this illusive watch (7s26-0020L) it has AO in a square box right next to it. It does not have the same band as the originally pictured. I purchase this watch from a Japanese seller whom indicated to me that it was strictly a Japanese only model, extremely well made. it indicated ‘made in Japan’ on the face, any input? Thanks…Dave
Hi David,
Your seller was probably misinformed. The SKX007J is not a Japanese market model, but one that’s exported to special markets such as the Middle East, Arab nations and Singapore. Because the SKX007J was never meant for sale in Japan, some watch dealers in Japan actually import the SKX007J back into their country to cater for a niche, collector demand.
You can learn about your watch in this article which I published years ago. 🙂
cheers,
Quartzimodo
[…] this one at 94%. Also comes on a Seiko Z22 rubber strap. You can read more about this timepiece at: The little known Seiko 7s26-0020 200m diver Price $225 PayPal and Delivered USPS Priority. Please email me at [email protected]. 3. […]
Hi all,
The SKX399 appears to be currently available – a member of our watch board who lives there has been the middleman for four purchases in December and January – I just got mine from him on Friday – brand-new with currently dated warranty card, box, manual, hang tag. Are the 399s still considered rare? I know the 401s are never seen – even my middleman in the Philippines can’t find one of those.
thanks
Hi Spencer,
The SKX399K/401K are considered region or country-specific Seiko divers. It’s native to the Philippines for reasons best known to Seiko (perhaps due to local demand), just as the Red, Blue and Yellow Monsters were exclusive to the Thailand market. Occasionally Seiko Japan gives a free reign to regional Seiko distributors to produce local versions of Seiko watches.
Do you see the letters “WP” or “KG” on the caseback? If you do, it’s most probably from 2011 and not 2001.
cheers,
Quartzimodo
Yes, “WP” in front of “stainless steel” on the caseback. What does that signify? The guy who got these for us says that when he finds a store that has these they’re never on display – they’re in a back room. The sellers say they’re an “old model”. I wish I knew for sure but it seems that they’re recently discontinued.
Hi Spencer,
I suspect the watch dealers have gotten wise to the SKX399K’s rarity and they’re hoarding them, hoping to drive their prices higher as demand increases and supplies dwindle.
The “WP” letters seem to have appeared on 7s26-0020 watches produced in the last two years. Its real meaning is not known outside the Seiko employee circles in the know. It could signify a production plant location, the stainless steel grade, etc.
cheers,
Quartzimodo
Hi Thang,
While the illustrative photos in my post show that of a Jubilee-clad, SKX399K you can also see the ones owned by my friend with the wave vent, Z-22 rubber strap. It’s quite possible that the SKX399K’s strap variations follow that of the SKX007K, where there was once an Oyster bracelet version but are now available only in either rubber or Jubilee bracelet.
cheers,
Quartzimodo.
I have a skx007k I bought from a reputable online dealer a few months back… It came with the original blue box, the clear blue plastic on the caseback, and the gray seiko tag hanging on the band.. It’s my first automatic and I had heard they tend to run fast… I set the time and it runs perfectly gaining only about 20 secs a week… Mine does say “wp” where most say “a”… Im pretty sure this is a factory location… If I’m wrong them somebody correct me… My serial number reflects a build date of September 2010
Hi Ed,
You have an SKX007K that was made towards the later part of 2000, possibly from 2008 onwards. Earlier ones like both my SKX007Js have “JAPAN A” on the caseback. It’s plausible that “WP” refers to a certain factory in Hong Kong (if Seiko now has more than one production site in China). One thing’s for certain is that only certain Seiko insiders know what “WP” actually refers to.
As to whether the “J” versions are actually made in Japan is an age old question. For the Saudi Arabian market, all low end Seiko watches have the “J” designation and “Made in Japan” marked on the dial and hang tags. If I recall correctly, this was a special trade arrangement between Saudi Arabia and Japan, dating back to the seventies. What I cannot remember are the details of this trade memorandum between both nations.
If you ask me, I’d say it doesn’t make economical sense for Seiko Japan to produce the “J” versions, which to date are exported to two countries – Singapore and to Saudi Arabia. Production costs are much higher in Japan than China. For simplicity’s sake, I will just accept that the “J” versions are made in Japan according to their labels. Even an old inquiry made by a watch enthusiast to Seiko Japan as to whether the “J” models are actually Japan made was replied with a very vague, “The shipping routes are slightly different”. You can see that Seiko Japan sidestepped the direct question and gave an indirect answer. It’s like one of those standard, canned responses that some White House media spokespersons make to the press. 😉
The “J” models will never be officially sold to the U.S. as its Federal Trade Commission (FTC) is extremely strict with their labeling regulations. That is why you will find U.S. export models like the SKX173 and SKXA35 divers being marked “Mov’t Malaysia, Cased in China” on the dial. This is not something new; I have seen examples of the old 7002 diver for the U.S. market with three countries of origin on the dial. It was clearly marked “Mov’t Singapore Dial Japan Cased Hong Kong”.
While it’s true that many Japan market Seiko watches are priced beyond USD1,000, they are largely upscale models from the Brightz, Credor, Grand Seiko and certain Prospex ranges, not all of them cost that much. I own a few JDM Seiko models like the SBDR005 Sky Professional, SBDC001 “Sumo”, SBDA003 and SBDA005 “Ti Samurai” divers plus the 300m, SBBN007 “Tuna” quartz diver. None of them cost me over USD600 each. They are ALL 100% Japan assembled and were mainly meant for local consumption in Japan.
Quartzimodo.
It is also my understanding ( per several seiko dealers, experts, watch repair ppl) that NO seikos, except the high dollar, 1,000.00 price and up are made in Japan… That means that everyone wearing a skx007j with “made in Japan” on the dial, is wearing a watch made in china, ( in a seiko factory of course with all of seikos quality control etc).. The made in Japan is on the dial solely for reasons of marketing and sales and intended country of sale… They are allowed to put. ” made in Japan ” if they have a tiny small percent of something on or related to the watch that derives from japan
Good to know… Another question, are the skx divers that are made in china, malaysia, etc.. Of the same quality that seiko has had for years? Are the movement peices and parts 100% made and assembled in china as well? Are the quality control standards of these non Japan factory’s the same as the Japan ones? Also, I’ve personally seen a skx007j ” made in Japan on the dial watch with “Japan wp” on the caseback… This might prove that those too are actually made on china as well since we’ve figured out that wp is a factory in china… Please respond
Hi Ed,
Seiko’s SKX divers are cased in Hong Kong, while the 7s26 and 7s36 movements are made in Malaysia since the 7s26B version came out in 2007. Prior to that the 7s26A version was formerly assembled in Singapore.
Quality wise there are no perceivable differences whether the watch is cased in China, Singapore or Japan. How many mainstream laptops and smartphones do you know that are still made outside of China or Taiwan today? Probably none.
Can anybody remember the last time IBM made their ThinkPad notebooks in the U.S. or Australia? What was the last Apple product that was American made? My last U.S. made digital gadget was the Palm m515 PDA and that was back in 2002. Thereafter the subsequent models which I bought – the Palm Tungsten T3 and TX were both China made.
In any case, I wouldn’t go on record saying that the “WP” and “KG” symbols found on current SKX divers refer to a factory site. It could be codes signifying something else. There’s no evidence to support this theory.
It’s not like the Suwa and Daini symbols used by Seiko up to the 80s, which represent the factory of assembly in Japan because the symbols were a certainty.
Quartzimodo
Seiko models have, as far as I or anyone else can tell, the same quality control at every factory. I’ve never observed better accuracy or worse with any correlation to any geographic area. The best out-of-the-box accuracy I’ve ever seen on a stock entry-level Seiko was on a 7s26 dress watch bought new off of Amazon for around $55 USD. Unreal accuracy, a few seconds off a month. Totally flat output on the timegrapher. My SKX399 which I just got is accurate to a few seconds a week, at four times the price.
Hi Spencer,
You are totally right in saying that the country of origin has no bearing on the accuracy of a 7s caliber watch. You can get a China assembled, Seiko automatic with pretty good accuracy and you can also get a Japan assembled version that runs too fast. It all boils down to sheer luck.
Where did you buy your SKX399K from? A few seconds of variance in a week is pretty impressive, I must say! 🙂
cheers,
Quartzimodo
Hi, as I noted above the SKX399 came out of The Philippines in early January. The watch was new wig box / manual / tag etc, manufacture date of Feb 2011. Caseback WR marked.
As for 7s26 accuracy, over at SCWF we had an accuracy competition in january where all participants wore the same watch for a month, and reported accuracy. More than a few guys wore 7s26 models, and most were quite accurate – a few reported total monthly variances from a few seconds to up to a minute total – in a month! There was no discussion around where the watch was made. We typically will only talk about movement families now, not geographic origin. This is true even for older models now like the 6309 divers which had multiple production places.
Hi Spencer,
Thanks for the update. It’s good to know that the SKX399K is still sold in the Philippines and I guess demand for this model is still strong there. Although I’m a registered member of SCWF, I haven’t participated in the forum since 2009 when it was upgraded to the new format. Good to know that SCWF has its core members with new participants too!
I’m not really bothered with accuracy as I wear different watches each day. If I were to rotate my watches and not wear the same one daily, it would take almost three months before I get back to the original watch. 🙂
Quartzimodo
Good to know… I was about 12 years old when I walked into my local jewelry store and saw both the Pepsi bezel and black bezel divers on display right next to each other… Ever since that day I wanted one… I finally bought one 20 years later ( now) and am just excited about it as the day I first saw it… I like the fact they are REAL divers watches… That’s what I always thought was so cool… And what you said about the luck of the draw about the accuracy of the movement is correct.. This being my first automatic I was apprehensive after reading several threads… Luckily I must have got a good one because, as hard as it is to believe, I set the time off my iPhones time and it literally has gained or lost at all… So accurate its almost unreal… I shook it next to my head and could hear the counter weight spin.. I started thinking it must have a battery to be this accurate… I was showing my local seiko dealer my watch, ( the same shop I saw it in 20 years ago) and the first thing he said was that mine had a beautifully sweeping second hand… The U.S skx 173 they had on displays second hand was more choppy… Anyways, thanks for all your info it’s nice to hear from someone that knows their seikos…
Hi Ed,
While I don’t have the SKX173, I do own the yellow dialed, SKXA35 diver. I chose this model because it’s not sold outside North America and is considered a rarity in SE Asia.
The appearance of the SKX173’s sweep second hand being “choppy” is due to the lumed “ball” being at the tip of the second hand. Therefore it looks choppier than e.g, the SKX007K which has the lumed ball at the opposite end.
The longer the second hand, the more visually magnified its tip becomes. I first observed this optical effect with the 6R20 equipped, Seiko Premier SPB003J. The 6R20 has a high beat, 28,800bph movement which runs smoother than common 21,600bph movements. Because the SPB003J’s sweep second hand is extra long, you’ll notice its individual ticking motion. On the other hand, my Orient CEY04002BO World Timer, despite beating at 21,600bph has a very short second hand in a sub-dial rotates so fluidly that you can’t even discern its individual steps.
Do note that accuracy and precision are totally separate things. If your watch gains 8 seconds for the first half of the day and somehow loses the same eight seconds for the remainder of the day, the net loss/gain would be zero. Your watch would be deemed as accurate, but not precise.
cheers,
Quartzimodo
I have those rare Seiko SKX399K 7s26-oo29 , I did contacted Seiko to know , they look those very carefully – My is Seiko , those was designated for Asian Market, many find way somehow to USA. I get those in Florida 2005. By the way, today I find rare original brand new Seiko – Land monster SNM O35 with metal bracelet on watchmaker store, I do not resist! I get it this Seiko for really good price.
Hello Vlad,
Are you able to show me photos of your SKX399K? You can use the free TinyPic photo hosting service to upload photos of your watch. AFAIK, the SKX399K should have the caseback numbers 7s26-0020 and NOT 7s26-0029. Any Seiko diver with 7s26-0029 marked on the back is meant for the U.S. export market and must have “Mov’t Singapore, Cased in China” printed on the dial.
Your Seiko “Landmonster” SNM035 is an example of a U.S. specific, Seiko watch that’s not sold elsewhere in the world and it will have the country of origin printed on the dial.
Quartzimodo
Hi,
My new Seiko Orange Monster (SS Bracelet) arrived from Watches-Bay today (Gift Time Pte Ltd 329 Beach Rd Singapore) and I was intrigued upon looking at the caseback serials and markings:
“SEIKO 7S26-0350 AO Scuba Diver’s 1N3468 KG Stainless Steel”
A few things here:
1. Was this made in Novemeber 2001 or November 2011?
2. What does the “KG” stand for
3. This monster feels more “flimsy” compared to a previously owner monster markings as follows:
“SEIKO 7S26-0350 AO Scuba Diver’s 881427 L3 Stainless Steel”
Any thoughts appreciated:
Thank’s.
Hi N,
Congrats on owning the SKX781K Orange Monster! It’s never too late to join the Monster Club and the fact Seiko is still making the OM/BM models is proof that they’re both popular models.
Monster models are fast moving stock, unless you bought one from some antiquated watch store with leftover Monsters from the early to mid 2000s. Yours is definitely from November 2011, because Black and Orange Monsters from 2008 onwards (if my memory is correct) have the cryptic letters “KG” stamped on them. The SKX007K/SKX009K classic Seiko divers also underwent a slight cosmetic change for its caseback; and had “WP” engraved. Monsters with the “KG” letterings also have the cheaper looking, all-polished stainless steel caseback while the earlier versions (like mine) have the Tsunami logo in sandblasted finish.
Neither “KG” nor “WP were present in either models previously and your guess is as good as mine what they represent. 🙁
I’m not sure what you meant as “flimsy” in your description, because I’ve never liked the Monsters’ factory fitted 20mm bracelet or worn them. Both my OM and BM are on water resistant Morellato Cordura-Lorica 22mm leather straps. 🙂
cheers,
Quartzimodo
Ok need some advice.. I’ve decided to ad a skx 009j to my collection… Where do you recommend me purchasing it? I’m looking at either creation watches. Com or skywatches.com… I love the Pepsi bezel always have … I feel the j model of the 009 is the end all be all of seiko diver.. Rubber strap of course…
Hi Ed,
Both sellers, which are based in Singapore are more or less on equal terms. Skywatches has been around since the early 2000s, while Creationwatches is a relatively newcomer to the online watch selling scene. The latter offers a 30-day money back warranty for any reason and if that gives you a better peace of mind, you might want to factor that in too. Skywatches only accepts returns in case of defects; they won’t entertain returns if you’ve changed your mind about the watch after receiving it.
I’ve never purchased from either vendor, therefore I can’t share my experience buying from either seller.
happy buying! 🙂
Quartzimodo
Thank’s for the info Quartzimodo!,
This is actually my second OM!, I parted with my original OM recently as it was gaining. This 2011 model just didn’t seem to hit me as much as my first OM out-of-the-box for some reason.
Perhaps I was just expecting too much – although I did suspect a (rare) fake or my 3048 Invicta left too much of an indent on my wrist when I replaced it with my OM! 🙂
On closer inspection the caseback is indeed more polished and is different to my old OM “SEIKO 7S26-0350 AO Scuba Diver’s 881427 L3 Stainless Steel” incidentally, am I right in saying that my old one was from 1998 ? as it felt (and looked) more solid.
Thank’s again!
(New OM gained 1 min in 1st week of daily wrist time).
Hi N,
Your previous OM diver was made in 2008 and not 1998. This is because the Monster divers were only introduced in the year 2000 and not earlier than that.
The new, all-polished casebacked Monsters only appeared sometime in 2010 and I’ve read gripes and grouses that its finishing isn’t as good as the earlier batches.
IMO, you need not have sold your previous watch; if it ran fast it can be regulated by a competent watchmaker or by an authorized Seiko service center.
Quartzimodo
Hi Terry,
If your Seiko 7s26-002x diver has a yellow dial, then it has to be none other than the SKXA35 that’s unique to the U.S. market. Of all the 7s26-002x divers, the SKXA35 hold the distinction of being the ONLY yellow faced model ever made. I have one too, and I wrote a short review about it here.
Quartzimodo
My watch is slightly different to the pictures you show on your review. The 12 marker is a plain triangle with no split and the 2,3,4,5,7,8,10 and 11 markers are circular. The 6 and 9 markers are are rectangular with rounded corners. the second hand pointer is plain and white, with (beyond the centre point) the back end being black with a circular end to it that is infilled with white. On the day section it has French alternatives.It is on a stainless bracelet.
Here’s little more info – on the dial (I noticed they are the same markers and hands as in the photograph you show with two watches on, that the Pepsi on the left has) Under the 12 marker it says SEIKO centred under which it says automatic and at the bottom over the 6 marker it says DIVER’S 200m and at the very bottom in tiny characters set either side of the 6 marker it says 7s26-003R R 2 and no country of origin that I can see.
Hi cucuchicuu,
It’s coincidental that you asked the same question as I did. My long time friend Eddie just returned from a three-week business trip to Manila and I texted him to buy the SKX399K diver for me.
He went through nearly all the watch stores along the Makati shopping district and was surprised to see that not one retailer even carried the Seiko brand, much less the SKX399K.
He wears the SKX779K Black Monster himself and owns a few other Seiko watches, so he knows what genuine Seiko watches should look like.
While. I can’t blame him for not looking in the “right places” as he wasn’t there for a holiday, I’m equally surprised to learn that Seiko watches are harder to find in downtown Manila compared to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong or even Bangkok.
The Timex brand on the other hand are plentiful; which isn’t surprising since Timex watches are made in the Philippines.
cheers,
Quartzimodo Admin
[…] sale only please. Here's a link to the most interesting read that always accompany the watch: quartzimodo.com/the-little-known-seiko-7s26-0020-200m-diver/ Thanks for looking. Reply With […]
Hi Andreas,
I apologize for the late response as I’ve been traveling and did not bring my laptop with me.
The Seiko watch in question (as you pointed out in the German forum), is actually a modified SKX007K with a dial from the discontinued SKX171K 200m diver’s watch and the second hand replaced with the one from the SBDA001 Titanium “Samurai” diver. Therefore the watch is a mod. It’s not even close to the SKX399K model that’s sold in the Philippines.
best regards,
Quartzimodo
[…] the SKX401K (Pepsi) and there rare as hens teeth description here is a good read about them quartzimodo.com/the-little-kn…20-200m-diver/ Thanks again to Glock 'em down __________________ SEIKO DIVERS: 6309 -7049||6309 […]
Hello John,
You’ve got the SKX401K? Congratulations, that’s a watch that’s hard to find! 🙂 Yes, if you have the 7s26A caliber then it’s very likely to be made somewhere between 1996 and 2006. Your watch’s serial number will be able to determine its exact manufacturing date.
best regards,
Quartzimodo
Hi John,
Consider yourself very fortunate to own the uber-rare, SKX401K. 🙂 It’s believed that Seiko discontinued the Pepsi bezeled version of the SKX399K much earlier and most WIS folks only got to know the SKX401K through photos shared on the Internet. The framed index markers of this watch makes it stand out from the garden variety, SKX009K diver and is more than enough for die hard collectors to outbid one another if they ever find one for auction on eBay. 🙂
As for the SKX399K, I haven’t been following the latest developments of this watch. It’s been a couple of years since I wrote this article and have no idea if it still can be found in the Philippines (brand new).
cheers,
Quartzimodo
I tried looking for 399s the other weekend to no avail. Last time I sold one was around a year and a half ago as far as I could remember.
Got this 401 with AM insert and faded depth rating but I hope to get OEM pepsi insert from Seiko. They are the same as the 009s?
I’ll post pics soon. As of now I have it on vintage pepsi insert, 7002 I think.
Thanks again
John
Hi John,
Yes, the bezel styling is similar to the SKX009K as both this and the SKX401K are from the same 7s26-0020 brethren. 🙂
Unfortunately you can’t buy just the bezel insert from Seiko. There is no such thing as a unique part number for the insert (however the bezel does). I know this from personal experience because I’ve bought some bezels for my overseas WIS friends some years ago. You’ve got to buy the entire bezel kit, which includes the washer or gasket – and that’s not exactly cheap. Thought you’d like to know. 🙂
Quartzimodo
Hi Graeme,
At 200 quid? Good heavens no! For that amount of money, you might as well get a brand new SKX009K (rubber strap version) with an updated 7s26B or 7s26C movement on eBay or from this site, or here (with Jubilee stainless steel bracelet to name a few! 🙂
I understand that professional labour is expensive in the UK but this is an affordable Seiko diver’s watch we’re talking about, not a Rolex Sea Dweller or high end Seiko Marine Master Professional 1000m diver’s watch. If you prefer to keep your existing watch, you’ll need a replacement Hardlex crystal (P/N:315P15HN02) and the complete rotating bezel unit (P/N:8601469B). Note that Seiko does not sell the bezel insert separately so you’ll have to buy the entire bezel – (click here for an example). There may be some sellers on eBay that stock both parts too.
As for your watch running 5 minutes fast per week, that averages out to 42.8 seconds per day. That’s not too bad although the 7s26’s factory specifications state +/- 40 secs per day. You can have your watch regulated by any jeweler who is experienced with fine tuning mechanical watches for a small fee. Note that regulating watches may be a two or three step process, therefore look for a watch repairer who agrees to recalibrate your movement for the second time in case it runs too slow on the first regulation attempt.
good luck! 🙂
Quartzimodo
Hi Joel,
That would be like saying, “I have a BMW model E90 for sale”. Well, that refers to the 4-door, 3 series sedan but which engine type and trim level does the car have? Which year is it from? What about its mileage and service records? 🙂
Seiko makes several models with the same 7s26-0020 designation, like the SKX007K/J, SKX009K/J, SKX011J, SKX171K, SKXA35, SKX173 (and a few others whose reference numbers escape me) and different models have their own appeal and demand. If your watch is the rarer, orange dialed SKX011J it would fetch a bit more than the more common, black dialed SKX007K.
Anyway, have a look at private watch listings like the Seiko & Citizen Trading Forum and of course, eBay and Amazon. Look at the second hand examples on offer and from there you can estimate how much your watch is worth. I am unable to give an offhand figure as asking prices fluctuate with the demand as well as the exact condition of the timepiece.
As a basic rule of thumb, look for the lowest prices of brand new pieces on Amazon and you’d probably want to shave off at least 20% from a listing for a new watch that is the same model as yours.
Good luck with the sale. 🙂
Quartzimodo
I got this Seiko divers a couple of days back and I’m having trouble identifying which SKX designation/variant it is. It’s dial looks like the 173 except for the way the ratings are written and the made in japan at the bottom. Also it’s hands are different from the 173 but more of the 399/007 hands. No question it’s an SKX but which one. I almost resigned to the fact that it has been modified with an aftermarket dial until I came across this one listing on ebay www.ebay.ca/itm/SEIKO-SCUBA-DIVER-S-7S26-0020-SKX173-AUTOMATICO-PARA-HOMBRE-WR200M-/222555213543?hash=item33d1530ee7:g:rSwAAOSw3YJZS-dr which has the pepsi bezel (mine is black). Also it has the 7s26B movement.
Thanks.
I bought a yellow dialled seiko scuba divers watch with 7s26-0020 markings – made in Japan in Dubai airport duty free in 2017 to replace my Tissot divers watch that had failed on me on holiday. Cost was @ £165. It has dual english / arabic date functions.
I can send you a photograph of dial etc if I knew where to send it
I inherited a Seiko 7S26-0029 Scuba Diver’s from my late step father in 2007. He had it for a long time I think. It says “MOV’T SINGAPORE” on the back and 8N0297. He traveled all over SE Asia, specifically the Philippines, while in the US Navy during the Vietnam War. I wear the watch daily. Works flawlessly. Email me if you’d like photos.
Mine is the only one of these I’ve ever seen. My wife bought me a (new) 7S26-0020 as a birthday gift back in ’96 or ’97 after we both got dive certified. It is pretty much a daily-use watch with English/Spanish calendar. It came on a rubber band that I have since swapped out for a Seiko oyster-style steel band with dive-suite extension and an aftermarket batman bezel. Sadly I lost the box and papers when we moved.
She bought it at Feldmar Jewellers in the Fairfax District of Los Angeles. Years later she complained about how expensive it was but Feldmar gave her no indication this was a rare or uncommon watch. Because it has no SKX designation and it is the only Seiko diver I’ve ever owned, it took me a while to understand the product lines.
Thanks for this article, it ties off many loose ends.
Hi, i recently acquired a 399 off eBay. I used your pictures to verify it, thanks for this awesome little page. The bezel ring was very beat up, so i got a double dome Sapphire crystal and angled bezel ring. I also replaced all the gaskets. I think it looks amazing! I love the subtle differences, like the framed indices. Not sure how to upload pictures here, but would love to share.
Hi, i recently acquired a 399 off eBay. I used your pictures to verify it, thanks for this awesome little page. The bezel ring was very beat up, so i got a double dome Sapphire crystal and angled bezel ring. I also replaced all the gaskets. I think it looks amazing! I love the subtle differences, like the framed indices. Not sure how to upload pictures here, but would love to share.
I’ve always been a fan of Seiko watches from my first purchase in 1967 of a Bellmatic in Cyprus whilst serving there. I have since bought many more and one of them was the one in this article, I at first thought it was a fake (a good fake) because of the price asked for it. This was reinforced somewhat by not being able to identify some of the numbers. (Seiko 7s26-0020 (AD) 009321 (WF) and some slight dissimilarities on the face at the 45 min and hour marks. I have had the watch examined by a reputable dealer and he says, as you, that it is a rare watch tried out on the Philippines market, I payed £100 and it is in pristine condition but has a NATO strap instead of the original steel (can supply photos if required) this was three years ago, the watch keep perfect time and looks fantastic.
I ordered from WISH a Seiko watch that looked nice with real numbers on it and a small cutout square for the date number. Since it costs only 22 bucks I decided to risk it.
Upon arrival of course I immediately noticed it was defective since I couldn’t get it going and when shaking it the hands went all over the place.
I sent in a complaint and to their honour they promptly sent me my money back with giving me or asking me any further information,
The front and back show SEIKO and the back has the following numbers: 7S26 0020, the letters AO inside a small square and the number 8D0675.
Does this all make any sense to you?
I bought one of these back in 1997-8 in Munich, Germany. I wear it every day and have been diving many times with it. It does, however, need servicing every 3-4 years though and it make it very expensive to keep as a service cost €250-€300.
It’s a lovely watch though and even though I’ve got other watches that are more expensive etc… I always go back to my humble yet massively practical Seiko divers watch.
Great article! I recently inherited a bunch of Seiko’s from my father. I always said all the ones he bought looked the same and he would laugh and say they are all different. As I’m digging into all of them now, there are little differences in so many I thought were the same. Looking up the value for this 7s26-0020 I noticed the markers weren’t round like the other ones, and the 12 o’clock marker had a line through it. I didn’t realize until you article but the dot is on the opposite side of the second hand. Anyway, your article popped up and it’s totally the watch I have. I’m sure my dad is looking down smiling that I figured it out. He never kept papers or boxes, so researching all of these has been fun and tiring :). thank you!
Hi Quartzimodo,
What would be a reasonable price for these hard to find models? How much more than a usual SEIKO divers MSRP price would be acceptable increase 10%, 20% more? Just in case I find one online or in shops.
Thanks & Regards.